Monday, June 17, 2013

I'm No Longer a Virgin

Well, the Gunks trip was a success!  I'm no longer a virgin & was able to get in my first Gunks lead climb.  I climbed a total of 8 pitches between the 2 days.  It was a slower pace than I had expected, but I was happy with all of the routes that we did.  I was able to climb on a wide variety of features that included some crack climbing, off width, layback, slab, chimney stemming & roof pulling. It was an interesting mix & a good full body workout.

On my first day, I seconded the first two pitches of Beginners Delight (5.3) - the third pitch was too wet to climb - and both pitches of Son of Bitchy Virgin (5.6).  I could have lead the first pitch of Beginners Delight, but with it being my first climb at the Gunks & my first trad in a couple of months, I just didn't have my lead head to jump right in.

On my second day, I lead the first pitch of Betty (5.3) & loved it.  It was just scary enough to keep my attention.  I was pretty proud of myself until I started belaying my partner up & a guy who was free soloing climbed up to my belay ledge.  No helmet, no rope, no gear. Hell, he wasn't even wearing his climbing shoes - they were hanging from his belt loop. Jerk. After this climb, I seconded Belly Roll (5.4).  Lots of exposure on that second pitch!

I always seem to learn at least one new skill every time I climb. On this trip, I learned how to manage double ropes & how to properly coil my cordelette.  Oh, and I also got some much needed feedback on my poor belay anchoring.  Ugh, I need more practice at that!  I built a solid 3 point anchor, equalized it with a cordelette, but I built it so low and off to the side of where I was belaying from that the anchor wasn't weighted during the belay and I belayed my second from my harness.  It worked & I think it was safe, but definitely could have been better.  Hopefully I will have the chance to get back on lead soon & sharpen up this skill.

My first Gunks lead - start of Betty 5.3 PG

Thursday, June 13, 2013

It's a Completely Different World

I'm in the middle of packing for my trip to the Gunks tomorrow & I can't help but feel nervous and panicked...  Do I have everything?  Am I ready to trad lead in the Gunks? I don't think I can fully explain it to someone who has never rock climbed before, but this nervousness and panicking is actually part of the allure of rock climbing. It's the build up before the main event...sort of like foreplay.

So many questions swirling through my head -- Do I remember how to build a belay anchor? What if I can't complete my lead? What if I get my period? (yes, I'm expecting my period this weekend. Ugh... guys have it easy!) Do I trust my partner(s) with my life? Literally. 
 

As my co-worker commented to me before I left the office today: "It's a completely different world."  We were discussing why I had taken tomorrow off from work & when I explained what my long weekend was going to entail, she literally shrugged her shoulders in horror.  Her big plans for the weekend include getting a manicure. Don't get me wrong, I used to enjoy a weekly manicure myself before I started getting serious about rock climbing (hence the name of my blog). But, with the polish lasting a mere few hours before getting jacked up from a climb, I only indulge in this now when I really need it or when I want to feel girly for something.  I didn't even bother getting a manicure for my last internet date & he noticed. He actually remarked on how "short & unpainted" my nails were. Oh, boys.

I'm bringing very few comforts with me. My iPhone will be my biggest comfort by far, complete with a new mophie juice pack air (+100% battery life) & an external battery charger to juice up both in the tent at night.  The mophie was a last minute purchase feeding into my fear of running out of battery life during this trip.  I'll be using my phone all weekend as my camera, watch, alarm clock, compass, GPS, radio, portal to my Facebook addiction & guidebook mid-climb (I'll be taking pictures of each climb description from the guidebook prior to each ascent & referring to them if needed).  If I run out of battery life during this trip, I think my world will promptly end.


Thursday, June 6, 2013

Gearing Up for the Gunks

Ever since I started rock climbing, I've come across many articles & have heard people talking about "The Gunks".  From what I've heard and read, this is the destination for serious trad climbers in the East.  "Tough, old school ratings" & many "classic routes" are the buzz words I've seen and heard.  Even my most recent internet date asked me within our first few email messages if I had been to the Gunks yet?  Well, no...  But, I plan to!

Without a partner, I had looked into guided trips earlier this year & came across an REI camping weekend for June 14th-16th.  It wasn't a trad trip though - more of a group top-roping trip.  I didn't book it because if I was going to spend $600 on a solo climbing weekend, I wanted to get trad instruction.  So, when I saw a Meetup group posted a couple of weeks ago for the same weekend pairing up experienced trad leaders with experienced followers, I jumped on it.  I didn't know the host, or even anyone who had signed up already, but this didn't stop me.  I wasn't sure if my experience was going to be enough to make the cut (the trip was capped at 10 people & you had to fill out a questionnaire about your experience).  But, a week after signing up, I received an email from the host that I was in!  Bonus: one of my climbing friends (also a trad beginner) had signed up for the trip & had been accepted as well.

I was so excited... I couldn't sleep that night!  I spent most of the night on the internet buying gear.  First order of business was guidebooks.  Our host strongly felt that we should all have books for the trip, so I found the recommended titles and checked those off of my list.  Next order of business was camping gear.  I was seriously lacking in this category.  I found a tent (Marmot Limelight 3) & a camping stove (Jet Boil Flash) after pouring through many reviews and options.  I already owned a sleeping bag & pad, but ended up upgrading the pad I owned to something thicker & more comfortable (REI Camp Bed 3.5).  I also bought a couple more cams to complete my double rack.  All in all, I spent almost the same amount that I would have spent on the REI trip, but now I have some sweet new gear to show for it.  Oh, and I purchased my last critical piece of gear tonight: a portable iPhone 5 charger from Amazon.  I think I would have a legit meltdown if my battery died on this trip!

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Climbing Outside of the Box

Tennessee 5.10
My climbing routine had started to get a little stale lately, so I decided to mix it up and sign up for a Meetup to climb in a crag that I had never been to with all new climbers that I had never met.  And to really make things interesting, I carpooled to the crag with a complete stranger (who I thought was cute).  The crag was Rose Ledge in western MA & the group ended up being a total of 10 climbers.  The crag was great - it was super hot and humid and the wall that we were working was in the shade for most of the day.  I had no idea what to expect from the day, but it was fun!

I was a little nervous with my carpool situation as I was going to be in his car for an hour and a half & we had only exchanged a few text messages prior to meeting, but it all worked out fine.  I was a little concerned when he asked me the diameter of my rope - I'm not going lie, I had visions of him tying me up in it - but he turned out to be a pretty normal climbing dude.  We spent the ride talking about our climbing experiences, which made the time fly by.

We met up with the rest of the group at a convenience store near the crag and then followed our host to the parking lot - none of us had climbed there before, so the escort was helpful. The 25 minute uphill approach to the ledge had me covered in sweat & pretty sore, but it was worth it.  I got in 5 solid climbs on 4 routes & finished all of them: Double Helix (5.9), Widowmaker (5.10), Marie Antoinette (5.10) & Tennessee (5.10) - I climbed this route twice.  I think my favorite climb was the Widowmaker - it was tough and couldn't be finished by everyone, but I pushed through the finish.  I did a lot of finger and hand jamming on this route, which I rarely get a chance to practice. I also enjoyed the layback & roof of Marie Antoinette.  All of these climbs were quality routes & well worth the effort to get to them. I'll definitely be back to this crag again.

Our group was small enough that we really had a chance to get to know each other & support each other on our climbs.  This is when I tend to have the most fun climbing - when I can get encouragement and beta from my fellow climbers to help push me through the crux.  I definitely made some new climbing friends today & hope to climb with them again soon.
  

Marie Antoinette 5.10