I'm No Longer a Virgin

Well, the Gunks trip was a success!  I'm no longer a virgin & was able to get in my first Gunks lead climb.  I climbed a total of 8 pitches between the 2 days.  It was a slower pace than I had expected, but I was happy with all of the routes that we did.  I was able to climb on a wide variety of features that included some crack climbing, off width, layback, slab, chimney stemming & roof pulling. It was an interesting mix & a good full body workout.

On my first day, I seconded the first two pitches of Beginners Delight (5.3) - the third pitch was too wet to climb - and both pitches of Son of Bitchy Virgin (5.6).  I could have lead the first pitch of Beginners Delight, but with it being my first climb at the Gunks & my first trad in a couple of months, I just didn't have my lead head to jump right in.

On my second day, I lead the first pitch of Betty (5.3) & loved it.  It was just scary enough to keep my attention.  I was pretty proud of myself until I started belaying my partner up & a guy who was free soloing climbed up to my belay ledge.  No helmet, no rope, no gear. Hell, he wasn't even wearing his climbing shoes - they were hanging from his belt loop. Jerk. After this climb, I seconded Belly Roll (5.4).  Lots of exposure on that second pitch!

I always seem to learn at least one new skill every time I climb. On this trip, I learned how to manage double ropes & how to properly coil my cordelette.  Oh, and I also got some much needed feedback on my poor belay anchoring.  Ugh, I need more practice at that!  I built a solid 3 point anchor, equalized it with a cordelette, but I built it so low and off to the side of where I was belaying from that the anchor wasn't weighted during the belay and I belayed my second from my harness.  It worked & I think it was safe, but definitely could have been better.  Hopefully I will have the chance to get back on lead soon & sharpen up this skill.

My first Gunks lead - start of Betty 5.3 PG